Postscript

It's been about 2 weeks since we've been back, and I've posted the best pictures at my other site, www.klpstudio.com. Click on the "Costa Rica 2004" link.

I hope those of you who read this have been helped or inspired in some small way. If you have any questions email me.

cheers,

klaus

Mill Valley, California

Puerto Viejo - Home

After 2 days in Puerto Viejo we checked in to the Costa de Papito, a really nice set of about 9 teak cabins scattered around a well manicured forest setting. Our shower was created from a mosaic of broken tiles in patterns of fish and other animals. Cool.

The area south of Puerto Viejo is well known for its blue beach waters. We rode bikes to an isolated spot and played the water for awhile, napping and getting some good sunburn on. Later we decided to rent bikes to ride south to Manzanillo, about 11 km. As we were riding into town, Emily's drive train broke and we spent a few hours waiting for a pickup from the Costa, which was only ten minutes drive down the road. No matter, gave us time for people watching. Dusk settled and the bugs and bats flittered in the dwindling light.

The election came and went. We drank our ravenswood and talked about it with a two other couples from different parts of the country. We were stunned, to say the least.

It was raining when we went to sleep, and the next morning I got up early to take photos of the sunrise, which was beautiful. Reds and blues mingled in the sky.

After exploring that area we decided to start to swing back to the capital and headed on a local bus back to San Jose, about 4 hours. Not a bad drive, but the driver passed a few fuel trucks and others in a sketchy manner, until i realized he was an old pro and relaxed a bit.

We arrived in San Jose. Time spent in actual San Jose: 6 minutes.
we caught a cab (or should say the cab driver caught us) and were hustled to our town about 11 km north of San Jose called Heredia.

Heredia is a nice town, although it felt like more of a suburb of San Jose, since country traffic has to pass through the town to get to San Jose. We just happened into a school parade being held outside the 300 year old church.

It was here in Heredia that Emily discovered the rotisserie chicken, the Pollo Asado. mmmmmmm. The wood used for the roasting is from coffee plants, and i don't know if that makes them taste any better, but they sure were good. I think we went through a few chickens while there. There was a quite bit of rain one day so we ate chicken and homemade tortillas with avocado while watching CNN.

After 2 days of Heredia we made our way back to Alajuela for our last 3 nights. The first night we stayed at the Mango Verde, a hostel. This was the only place we stayed that didn't have towels. Definitely a bit cheap for us post-college types. It did have a great communal kitchen so we went to the big, outdoor Mercado, about 150 booths consisting of either small cafeterias or meat, fish, veggie or grain salesmen, cheese vendors etc. We picked up some fresh cheese and meat and made steak fajitas. We also enjoyed more salchichons (sausages) with homemade tortillas at the market too, with fresh squeezed orange juice.

the next morning we moved back over to our first place we stayed when we arrived, the Vida Tropical. We were welcomed back and given a nice separate house in the backyard with George, the resident monkey. He climbed all over my head and wouldn't let go for a while until he was coaxed off by a banana. He gave Emily a good crawling over too, at one point urinating on her hand for good measure. That night was a really nice communal dinner with pasta and fresh trout.

The last 2 nights had the most amazing sunsets, incredibly rich oranges turning to a bright blue, due to the rain most of the day(s).

We woke up at 5 am to see Poaz Volcano, a semi-active volcano, now filled with water and fumaroles. We were determined to be the first ones there and hired a driver to take us there. It was dumping rain, but we hoped we could still see it. After hiking about 20 minutes in driving rain in our sandals we couldn't do anything but laugh about it. Poaz' height is about 8,000 feet, so it can be quite cold. We reached the edge of the craters' cliff and saw....Nothing. Total White out.

We did another quick hike up the hill to see another lake but it was whited-out too. Nothing like a hike at 8,000 feet at 8 am in the driving rain to wake you up.

We did more shopping and more eating. Got in our last sunset in the park, a red-purple sky under the palm trees.

In a twelve hour period we went from waking up in Costa Rica with a monkey in the yard to setting foot in our homes. Its funny the things you notice that we take for granted here:

Cars actually stay between the lines on the road.

Money looks and feels funny.

Getting into socks and jeans and boots after wearing only sandals and shorts.

Beer tastes better.

I now have 718 images to sort through before posting online. Got some good ones. If you are interested in seeing them when I post them in a few weeks please write me and I will put you on the list when i announce its ready.

Thank you for reading, Emily and I had a great time and can't wait to return again soon!

Klaus

Puerto Viejo to Playa Cocles / The Election

Friends,
Today we are leaving lovely Puerto Viejo to farther south, Playa Cocles. Our next place we will stay is called La Costa de Papito, which, ironically enough, was just reviewed 2 days ago by msnbc travel section.

Puerto Viejo is populated by afro caribbeans imported from Jamaica over 100 years ago. Its more bob marley than bob marley. We have easily forgotten we are in Costa Rica, surrounded by reaggae music and dreadlocked natives. Truly no reason now to go to Jamaica, a little slice of it lives here.

The beaches here are the best in Costa Rica. This is the home of the Salsa Brava Wave, Mecca for surfers. Luckily it is the down season and the wave is gone for a few months. The ocean is azure blue, like the postcards, the roads dusty and potholed, the residents in a perennial state of torpor. The ex pats here have seen a little too much sun and ganja. Bicycles and bare feet rule the streets here.

Halloween was a few nights ago, truly the strangest, most disconnected Halloween I have ever experienced. no matter.

And the Election. When our next President is announced Emily and I will be enjoying a fine bottle of Ravenswood wine that I have carried on my back the whole journey, hopefully watching CNN and celebrating the end of one sad era and the beginning of a more hopeful one.

In a few days we head back for San Jose and hopefully the top of Poaz volcano. Stay Tuned.

k

Tortuguero to Cahuita

Friends,

The last week has been amazing. In only one day we went from watching the lava flow at sunrise to reaching one of the farthest reaches of Costa Rican civilization, Tortuguero National Park. In less than 24 hours we went from seeing the lava flow to watching giant green turtles laying eggs at midnight.

The adventure began at 8.30 am with a 4 hour drive to Cariari, a small backwater town in the middle of banana plantations owned by huge us interests. If you saw what i saw, you would only eat organic bananas from now on. Massive pesticide use.

At Cariari we boarded a bus for another 1.5 hour drive down a dirt road to the canal. After much pushing and shoving we began the long boat ride to Tortuguero. We saw many birds, including blue herons. The boat ride was another 3.5 hours to Tortuguero village, through the most incredible river i have ever seen, you might as well have been in the Amazon, the forest was so thick and huge. We also saw some of the biggest spiders ever, shudder>>>> Not only that, we saw caiman alligators and monkeys, etc, etc, the list goes on. Think Amazon.

Reaching Tortuguero, a small village of 600, there are no roads, no cars, no internet. The only way to this village is by boat or plane, no roads. Tortuguero sits at the edge of the northern border, on the Caribbean ocean. After finding a good meal of Comidas tipicas *typical CR food, beans and rice etc* , we went on the turtle hike, seeing 3 turtles, one laying eggs, and on our hike back, saw dozens of baby turtles returning to the sea. Awesome.

The next day we visited the national park for a hike alone. We saw more wildlife here than anywhere else. In one hour we saw:

Land crabs
Lizards
A huge tree snake going for a bird,
Monkeys
Leaf cutter ants
Giant butterflies
Birds
Parrots

And who knows what else we didn't see. After we saw a beautiful Tiger Heron, a large tiger striped Heron the size of a great blue heron. Beautiful.

After a dinner of pizza and drinks, the next day we set off for a 4 hour boat ride south to Moin, where we saw more wildlife like giant sloth's, more Caiman and crocodiles.

Reaching Moin, we took a taxi to Cahuita, where we are now, a sleepy little village with no paved streets and a decidedly Caribbean atmosphere. It would be easy to think we were in Jamaica. We even met "jimmy cliff", a colorful local character who shared his coconut milk with us.

we had dinner last night at "Miss Ediths", a genuine Creole restaurant, where we had mixed seafood, mine was jerke style, *wow, spicy, even for me* , absolutely wonderful. Emily wanted to adopt miss Edith, i think.

Today we went for another hike, where we saw the best white faced monkeys so far. They were used to being fed, so they came within arms reach, which was cool until they realized we weren't going to feed them. Every time I reached into my bag for a lens, they came closer, which became scary when I tried to scare them away. The male wouldn't have any of that and began to show his choppers, which scared Emily to bits and we beat a hasty retreat back into the forest, with the male following us. Those monkeys went form being cute little Disney characters to actual, wild animals. We were quickly reminded this was the real deal. Our advice after that was *what would the croc hunter do* and do exactly the opposite.

The forest by the Caribbean was very windy and more than once branches and coconuts fell within feet and sometimes inches of us, so we headed back. At the park entrance there were locals selling yummy homemade Pattis *think empanadas* and wonderful banana bread.

Tonight we again eat Creole and tomorrow we take off further south towards more azure seas to Puerto Viejo and Playa cocles. Our potential plan is to go back early to San Jose and check out Volcan Poaz before returning.

And Dad, I'm getting your emails just fine.

Good to hear from all of you, good luck in the elections,

k

One Week In

We have officially been here one week so far in Costa Rica. Yesterday we checked into the swankiest hotel yet, Los Lagos (The Lakes). Our room is the closest to the volcano, in the best area to see the flows.

After checking in, we were relaxing in our room, air conditioner blasting, when we heard a horrific explosion. We both jumped about 3 feet high and ran to the window, expecting to see a massive lava avalanche headed our way. Nothing. Scared us to death. We have since learned the Volcano burps all the time, but still it is slightly unnerving. We are placed directly in the path if the mountain blows, with no chance of escaping 130 mph pyroclastic flows if it so desires. I wish I could share with you the sound of the giant boulders crunching and exploding as they are spit out of the top. Volcan Arenal is the third most active volcano in the world, after kilauaea and Aetna.

After dinner last night (where Emily says she had the best Caesar salad in her life, watch out dad), we hiked up a very steep road to the lookout point, the absolute closest anyone can get to the flow. Our spot overlooks a lake, with the mountain spewing above it. About every two minutes an impressive flow tumbles down the mountain. One of the most beautiful experiences is to see the flow reflected in the lake below and listening to the crunch crunch of the boulders tumbling and exploding.

Although our room is quite nice, the resort itself is like a Mexican Disneyland on crack. Gaudy waterslides and concrete volcanoes abound, with the requisite swim-up bar in the pool. The resort also comes complete with crocodile pool (where I won 1000 colones ( two bucks) from Emily for grabbing the tail of a small crocodile) and butterfly farm.

Tomorrow we depart for the east coast, Tortuguero, where we hope to see some baby turtles heading for the open sea. We are thrilled.

We have also reached rice and beans capacity, I think.

klaus

ps -- after performing spell check, the blog wanted to replace Arenal with Urinal. Funny. I thought I´d pass it on.

klaus

La Fortuna Part 2

This morning I awoke at about 5 am to witness a beautiful sunrise over Volcan Arenal. The sky was clear and blue, with a large puffy white smokestack of steam arising from the crater. Sometimes I wonder when how many pictures are enough to capture the beauty.

Yesterday afternoon we took a hike down to the Catarata, or waterfalls. this protected area is in primary rainforest and meets all definitions of "tropical". The steam was full of what looked like trout, and the waterfall, at a height of about 150 feet, was stunning. Again, too many pictures were taken. Emily as usual was patient and gave me the time to go photo crazy.

Tonight we are changing our arrangements and staying at the Los Lagos Lodge, directly at the bottom of the lava flow. We are hoping to see some really fabulous lava flows tonight. We have bottle of Ravenswood wine we have carried this far and expect to enjoy it under the glow of the volcano.

Tomorrow--no plans. Stay tuned,

klaus

La Fortuna -- Volcan Arenal

Friends,

Well, we didn´t go ziplining but we did go on the Sky Bridge tour, which is a series of suspension cable walkways across 200 foot-deep gorges above the primeval forest. Some bridges were over 500 feet long, and had quite a sway to them. Got some great photos and can´t wait to share them with you. It´s amazing to see the forest from directly above-- the canopy cover is absulutely complete and you cannot see the ground, only treetops.

The weather in Santa Elena was totally mild and nice, and after the walkway tour we went to the local cheese factory, built by the Quakers in 1952. The cheese from this area is legendary, and I can attest to that! They also make homemade Ice cream. I had the coffee ice cream, which is made, of course, with local excellent coffee and fresh cream. I have never had frsher food than here in Costa Rica (more on that later).

After Ice cream we went to the frog exhibit and saw beautiful frogs, many endangered. Learned more about frogs than i ever wanted to know. Very cool.

We decided we had had enough of Santa elena and it was time to move on. We got a mini bus ride to Lake Arenal and took the ferry across. As we neared the shore, Volcan Arenal loomed above, shrouded in fog at its upper reaches. Very impressive so far. We caught a ride into town and now are staying at a nice hotel which overlooks the volcano.

I have to spend a moment to talk about possibly the best meal i have ever had. First of all, anyone that says Costa rican food is bland or poor is totally nuts. At a Tico bbq joint we had a giant platter of the following:

2 large lobsters
2 pork tenderloins
2 sirloin steaks
bbq chicken
6 giant shrimp
Fresh grilled fish (possibly sea bass)
veggies, all grilled to perfection

-- all for 34 bucks ( yes, 17 dollars each).

Even this morning, the local Gallo Pinto (rica and beans with meat) had local fresh cheese, the coffee has fresh cream, the milk is straight from the cow, really fresh eggs, and excellent coffee.

Simple, yes, but the freshest, tastiest simple food I have ever had. Move over, Thailand!

Last night we took a guided night hike to a vista point which gave us absolutely impressive views of the lava flow-- giant, i mean giant flaming boulders tumbling down the mountain, colliding and exploding into thousands of mini fireballs. Since we were hiking through the rainforest, it didn´t fail to rain hard on us, so hard it impeded visibility to about 30 feet. I was worried about my camera, but luckily the inner garbage bag saved the day. All other pockets were swimming in water.

After a most impressive display of Lava (my right arm for a 600 mm lens!), we were taken to the Baldi thermal hot springs, a resort-like place, complete with 6 different temperature hot springs and swim up bar. We relaxed in the hot water, sipping drinks and watching the lava tumble down the mountain. An unreal experience.

Today we are on our way to La Catarata, the local waterfall. I´m hoping to get some good photos of that. I am speeding through my memory cards way too fast. Hoping some dull stuff will happen so i can save my cards :)

My spanish is improving daily, I can´t wait to learn more!

Hasta luego,

klaus