Wednesday, November 24, 2004

Postscript

It's been about 2 weeks since we've been back, and I've posted the best pictures at my other site, www.klpstudio.com. Click on the "Costa Rica 2004" link.

I hope those of you who read this have been helped or inspired in some small way. If you have any questions email me.

cheers,

klaus

Mill Valley, California

Friday, November 12, 2004

Puerto Viejo - Home

After 2 days in Puerto Viejo we checked in to the Costa de Papito, a really nice set of about 9 teak cabins scattered around a well manicured forest setting. Our shower was created from a mosaic of broken tiles in patterns of fish and other animals. Cool.

The area south of Puerto Viejo is well known for its blue beach waters. We rode bikes to an isolated spot and played the water for awhile, napping and getting some good sunburn on. Later we decided to rent bikes to ride south to Manzanillo, about 11 km. As we were riding into town, Emily's drive train broke and we spent a few hours waiting for a pickup from the Costa, which was only ten minutes drive down the road. No matter, gave us time for people watching. Dusk settled and the bugs and bats flittered in the dwindling light.

The election came and went. We drank our ravenswood and talked about it with a two other couples from different parts of the country. We were stunned, to say the least.

It was raining when we went to sleep, and the next morning I got up early to take photos of the sunrise, which was beautiful. Reds and blues mingled in the sky.

After exploring that area we decided to start to swing back to the capital and headed on a local bus back to San Jose, about 4 hours. Not a bad drive, but the driver passed a few fuel trucks and others in a sketchy manner, until i realized he was an old pro and relaxed a bit.

We arrived in San Jose. Time spent in actual San Jose: 6 minutes.
we caught a cab (or should say the cab driver caught us) and were hustled to our town about 11 km north of San Jose called Heredia.

Heredia is a nice town, although it felt like more of a suburb of San Jose, since country traffic has to pass through the town to get to San Jose. We just happened into a school parade being held outside the 300 year old church.

It was here in Heredia that Emily discovered the rotisserie chicken, the Pollo Asado. mmmmmmm. The wood used for the roasting is from coffee plants, and i don't know if that makes them taste any better, but they sure were good. I think we went through a few chickens while there. There was a quite bit of rain one day so we ate chicken and homemade tortillas with avocado while watching CNN.

After 2 days of Heredia we made our way back to Alajuela for our last 3 nights. The first night we stayed at the Mango Verde, a hostel. This was the only place we stayed that didn't have towels. Definitely a bit cheap for us post-college types. It did have a great communal kitchen so we went to the big, outdoor Mercado, about 150 booths consisting of either small cafeterias or meat, fish, veggie or grain salesmen, cheese vendors etc. We picked up some fresh cheese and meat and made steak fajitas. We also enjoyed more salchichons (sausages) with homemade tortillas at the market too, with fresh squeezed orange juice.

the next morning we moved back over to our first place we stayed when we arrived, the Vida Tropical. We were welcomed back and given a nice separate house in the backyard with George, the resident monkey. He climbed all over my head and wouldn't let go for a while until he was coaxed off by a banana. He gave Emily a good crawling over too, at one point urinating on her hand for good measure. That night was a really nice communal dinner with pasta and fresh trout.

The last 2 nights had the most amazing sunsets, incredibly rich oranges turning to a bright blue, due to the rain most of the day(s).

We woke up at 5 am to see Poaz Volcano, a semi-active volcano, now filled with water and fumaroles. We were determined to be the first ones there and hired a driver to take us there. It was dumping rain, but we hoped we could still see it. After hiking about 20 minutes in driving rain in our sandals we couldn't do anything but laugh about it. Poaz' height is about 8,000 feet, so it can be quite cold. We reached the edge of the craters' cliff and saw....Nothing. Total White out.

We did another quick hike up the hill to see another lake but it was whited-out too. Nothing like a hike at 8,000 feet at 8 am in the driving rain to wake you up.

We did more shopping and more eating. Got in our last sunset in the park, a red-purple sky under the palm trees.

In a twelve hour period we went from waking up in Costa Rica with a monkey in the yard to setting foot in our homes. Its funny the things you notice that we take for granted here:

Cars actually stay between the lines on the road.

Money looks and feels funny.

Getting into socks and jeans and boots after wearing only sandals and shorts.

Beer tastes better.

I now have 718 images to sort through before posting online. Got some good ones. If you are interested in seeing them when I post them in a few weeks please write me and I will put you on the list when i announce its ready.

Thank you for reading, Emily and I had a great time and can't wait to return again soon!

Klaus


Tuesday, November 02, 2004

Puerto Viejo to Playa Cocles / The Election

Friends,
Today we are leaving lovely Puerto Viejo to farther south, Playa Cocles. Our next place we will stay is called La Costa de Papito, which, ironically enough, was just reviewed 2 days ago by msnbc travel section.

Puerto Viejo is populated by afro caribbeans imported from Jamaica over 100 years ago. Its more bob marley than bob marley. We have easily forgotten we are in Costa Rica, surrounded by reaggae music and dreadlocked natives. Truly no reason now to go to Jamaica, a little slice of it lives here.

The beaches here are the best in Costa Rica. This is the home of the Salsa Brava Wave, Mecca for surfers. Luckily it is the down season and the wave is gone for a few months. The ocean is azure blue, like the postcards, the roads dusty and potholed, the residents in a perennial state of torpor. The ex pats here have seen a little too much sun and ganja. Bicycles and bare feet rule the streets here.

Halloween was a few nights ago, truly the strangest, most disconnected Halloween I have ever experienced. no matter.

And the Election. When our next President is announced Emily and I will be enjoying a fine bottle of Ravenswood wine that I have carried on my back the whole journey, hopefully watching CNN and celebrating the end of one sad era and the beginning of a more hopeful one.

In a few days we head back for San Jose and hopefully the top of Poaz volcano. Stay Tuned.

k